Step one: Do a google search for java website counters - standby for the
avalanche.
Step two: after you select the counter you like use the Insert, HTML code
fragment.
An alternative is to download your log files and use a log analysis
program such as AlderWind to produce data. It will tell you a lot more
than a counter would even think about providing. My opinion is that
counters look tacky and are more for the designer than the viewer to enjoy.